Suzie's in Manhattan, a Veritable Institution

by Elise Krentzel

Suzie's Restaurant is no ordinary run-of-the-mill affair. The illustrious winner of too many accolades and awards to mention here includes, to name a few choice ones: The New York Times’ Best Lunch Combos in January 2009, Chinese Restaurant News’ Top 100 Overall Excellence in 2008 and 2007, where it ranked 8^th in the entire country in 2008, and Chinese Restaurant News’ Top 100 Take-Out in 2008, of which it was the only recipient in New York City. How is that possible in a city with thousands of Chinese (and “Americanized” Chinese) restaurants?

ARN spoke with Julie, daughter of Susie, who founded the restaurant 36 years ago, to find out just what makes this veritable institution tick. She's been the co-owner and operating manager for the past 25 years. It is in the exact same building on Bleecker Street in Greenwich Village as in 1973, a landmark in the community. Julie, mother of five daughters, works with her husband, Francis.

Turn Back the Clock

Everyone in Chinatown knows James Ying, Julie's great-uncle. He started one of America's first import/export trading companies with mainland China in the 80s when free trade was hardly the norm, given the political climate in China.

Members of Julie's family were the first ones to represent Taiwan at the World's Fair in New York in 1964. Mr. Ying sponsored the first batch of immigrants from mainland China, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Burma to work at the World's Fair. That same year, Julie's mother Susie, emigrated from Taiwan. Her mother worked with Mr. Ying, and learned the hospitality and catering businesses from the vantage point of a major supplier. Suzie's Restaurant was opened in 1973.

Mr. Ying ran two gift shops on the observation deck of the former 2 World Trade Center for 23 years, from 1973 to 1996. At the beginning of the 80s, he ran the China Pavilion at Epcot Center in Disney World. A whole generation of Americans (and foreigners) was introduced to Chinese cuisine. Mr. Ying was the first culinary ambassador of Chinese cuisine to America. He brought awareness of China's regional specialties creating American's love story of Chinese food. That is probably why it is so ubiquitous in America. Who doesn't know what Lo Mein, Egg Foo Young, General Tso's Chicken or BBQ Spare Ribs are?

Fast Forward 2009

Suzie's started out serving Hunan and Szechwan specialties. Known and respected for “excellent tasting authentic Chinese cuisine” with top notch presentation, they've added Mandarin and Cantonese dishes due to a growing Chinese population that frequents their digs. As she says, “They want the dishes prepared in the flavor and manner in which they're accustomed to back in China.”

All-time winning dishes, which include Szechwan Spicy Beef Noodle Soup, Short Ribs with Black Bean Sauce, Curry Chicken. Roasted Duck, Roast Chicken, Soy Sauce Chicken and Crispy Chicken Chinatown style, were added to assuage the taste buds of the new Chinese customers. Non-Chinese have their own list, including Chicken with Broccoli, General Tso's Chicken and Sesame Chicken. 50% of the orders inevitably include Fried Rice, Lo Mein, Dumplings or Hot Sour Soup.

Homey & Healthy

Suzie’s strives to offer healthy and nourishing food options. Homey meals at down home prices are the norm. Julie eats a lot of greens, herself, and serves many unusual greens that are not commonly found in the thousands of Chinese restaurants that dot Manhattan, such as choy sum, bitter melon and Chinese broccoli.

Picky Purveying Keeps Prices Down

Fresh dumpling skins are handmade and mostly used for wontons. String beans and snow peas are delivered daily. Noodles are purchased outright by Julie, a picky and demanding manager. She uses a dozen purveyors to compare quality, consistency, freshness, color and texture. Her customers profit from this attitude; she passes on savings to them in lower prices. 80% of the clients return more than once a week. They appreciate her sensitivity.

“All the purveyors know me. I have an outspoken direct mannerism. If I don't like something, I give it back! Immediately,” she claims.

Staying Alive in the City

The 75 seater locale has a turnover at lunch and dinner at 1 to 1 ?. 2009 was their worst year ever. In the 1st quarter of 2008, they had a lunchtime turnover of 2 times. There are at least few dozen Chinese restaurants within a 10 block radius of Suzie's. Restaurants come and go all the time, muses Julie. There's huge competition in the neighborhood. What grabs people about Suzie's is, “taste, first class service and the reputation of being the oldest Chinese restaurant in the neighborhood”, she says.

“We know each customer's first and last names. We know what they will order and what they are willing to try.” The chef works closely with Julie to tweak recipes. He is a real craftsman, admits Julie.

Family Management Makes Everyone Feel at Home

Julie and her husband work the front of the house. However everyone reports to Julie. The 10 chefs, from choppers to the head chef, have been there for at least ten years. If that isn't a testament to the staff’s satisfaction, what is?

Julie's warm character is apparent by the thoughtful way in which she speaks to her employees, creating an easygoing atmosphere under her watchful eye. The chef meets with his staff and Julie gives the occasional pep talk to savvy waiters. The restaurant is small so changes can be made on the spot. 

“There's no need to hold bi-weekly meetings. The staff knows exactly what to do,” she proudly announces.

The Common Good

Part of the Bleecker Area Merchant Resident's and Association for years, her contribution is enormous. Trees were planted in the neighborhood to beautify it, food and drinks donated to the local churches and New York University, thousands of dollars given to those in need. Her true Buddhist nature reveals itself: give, do good, share with all.

Plans for the Future

She shyly admits, “The restaurant is a way of making a living for me and I don't want another one. I like when the neighborhood people come here and sit for a chat because they see us as their extended family.” “Be happy, work happy, pay your bills and take care of your family.”