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Hiroko Shimbo on Japanese Cuisine (3/4)

I think all fermented products contribute to our health because they contain elements that are easy for our bodies to use since have been predigested by the fermenting bacteria. Some of these products may be high in sodium (soy sauce for example), so chefs need to take care to use them in proper proportions. The many varieties of sea vegetables (not to be called weeds!) are also very high in all nutritive mineral content and they are rich in dietary fibers. Tea is also is antioxidant and has many more health benefits. The popularity of “oily” fish, very rich in omega 3 fatty acids, such as mackerel, and sardines, and many others in the Japanese diet is probably partly responsible for the Japanese having the world’ s longest lifespan. Introducing appealing dishes using these strongly flavored fish to the American public, long accustomed to less oily, more bland white fish is a real challenge for chefs. Many of the fermented products, including soy sauce or miso (soybean paste) have very distinctive, strong aroma, flavor and taste. So, care must be taken to incorporate them into alien food preparations. For example, flavoring tomato sauce with soy sauce or miso paste will ruin the sauce, but using miso to stir-fry vegetables in the Chinese way seems good, since Japanese and Chinese already share many techniques and ingredients and their dishes frequently have similar flavor characteristics. To achieve health benefits in the simplest and most straightforward way restaurants should use the freshest, high quality, seasonal ingredients in a balance of high quality protein, vegetables and grains, and apply the minimum but sufficient cooking time, using little additional fats and oils (try to use the natural fat from the protein, nuts and seeds). The healthful ingredients I have mentioned can enhance flavor and nutrition if used in proper proportion. Which wines pair well with Japanese food? America is now in the middle of a sake “boom”, and educating consumers and diners to the delights of these newly available beverages is quite a challenge and rewarding. Japanese dishes go well with sake or beer which can enhance the natural, individual flavor of the seasonal ingredients used in the cuisine, and at the same time mellow the robust flavor of Japanese condiments such as soy sauce and miso. Of course, there is the question of which sake with which food – a question that can be as complex as pairing Western foods with wine. But, just like the wine/food question, you can always choose the sake that you like, not the one the book says goes with your dish. For the delicately flavored dishes choose a drink delicate in flavor and mild acidity. For hot and spicy dish choose a drink which can stand up to the spiciness and quench thirst. For longer-cooked stewed or braised dishes choose a drink with depth of aroma, more complex flavor and good acidity. The New Stars On The Menu of Japanese Restaurants Miso-marinated grilled black cod – a delicate marinating process that enhance, but does not mask the flavor of the fish Sumibiyaki, charcoal grilled dishes – an excellent way to prepare a very wide variety of produce and protein that preserves the natural essence of the ingredient; preparation is simple (but don’ t under or overcook!), and the tastes have very broad appeal Izakaya-ryori, small dishes made popular in Japanese bars; think “Japanese tapas” – a way to sample and enjoy a wide variety of tastes, textures and cooking styles at relatively low price and in a very informal style Kaiseki-ryori, the classic formal, fixed menu, multi-course dinner enhanced by traditional and new dishes – a way to satisfy the desire for a “high class” Japanese dining experience without the need for the sophisticated knowledge to order individual menu items Why Are They Becoming The New Favorites?
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