Matching & Cooking for the New Chilled Sakes (3/4)

Fleshy shellfish (scallops, oysters, abalone, lobster, etc.). Raw foods, from tataki and tartare to sashimi and oysters. Fish in fragrant broths, steamed, cooked in hotpots, nages, green (ochazuke) or black teas, or finished with infused oils. Steamed Japanese custards (chawan mushi). Restrained use of creams, butters and beurre blancs, coconut milk, oils (sesame, olive, grapeseed, etc.), “dynamites” (mildly spiced Japanese aioli), Parmigiano (in risotto), and avocado – all to match the silky sake textures. To match the daiginjo sakes’ stony, earthy aspects, use of all varieties of sea vegetables, seasonings and minerally/saline sea foods (caviars, bonito flakes, eel, clam, sea urchin or uni, etc.) Earthy vegetables such as mushrooms (fresh or dried), truffles (and truffle oil), root vegetables (daikon and other radishes, horseradish, gobo, fennel, burdock, lotus root, etc.), mustards, toasted sesame seeds, and Chinese greens (choy sum, bok choy, ong choy, etc.). Fragrant, leafy green herbs such as parsley, mitsuba, mints, dill, sweet basil, chiso, chervil, tarragon and Mexican mint marigold. Crisp vegetables such as snow peas, cucumber, asparagus, bean sprouts, edamame, and fennel. Foods for Medium Sweet Sakes (Sake Meter Values Between +4 and -5) Rich, oily, even salty fish – such as sashimi grade tuna and hamachi, mackerel, salt cod (brandade), cuttlefish, herring, eel, anchovy and sardines – that easily balance the stony, whispery sweet qualities of the off-dry sakes. “Sweet” varieties of shellfish (shrimp, crab, lobster, etc.), white fish, pork, and other white meats with mildly sweet glazes (yakitori, teriyaki, misoyaki, etc.). Crispy fried foods (tempura, potstickers, spring rolls, lumpia, etc.). Caviars of all sort (sturgeon, salmon, flying fish, etc.) Restrained use of sweet/hot seasonings (shichimi togarashi, Chinese five spice, jerk, Cajun spices, etc.) or mildly sweet/sour/spicy barbecue sauces (Asian or American variations). Mildly acidic broths, oils, vinaigrettes and aiolis made with rice vinegar, mirin, yuzu, ponzu, etc. Wok charred Chinese greens and sweet peppers with oyster or fish sauces. Mildly hot fruit/vegetable relishes (Asian or Mexican salsas), dipping sauces (such as Thai) and mustards. Earthy, salty and/or sweet toned Japanese ingredients (ginger, kabayaki, unagi, gobo, daikon, green tea, soba, sesame, umeboshi, nori, furikake, etc.). Earthy seasonings and marinades such as moles, or using achiote, cumin, miso or sesame pastes, etc. Fresh or dried seaweeds. Fragrant rices (such as jasmine and basmati) and preparations of rice (arroz, paella, risotto, pilaf, etc.). Strongly scented herbs and spices (such as star anise, kaffir, cilantro, Vietnamese coriander, Thai or licorice basils, saffron, cumin, paprika, allspice and achiote). Pungent alliums (sweet onions, scallions, garlic, shallots, chives and leeks). The entire range of taste sensations associated with Asian or Pacific Rim foods; including sweet (tropical fruit infusions, palm sugared sauces, hoisin, chutneys, Chinese or Japanese bean pastes, etc.), sour (use of vinegars, citrus juices, lemon grass, yogurt, tamarind pastes, green mango and green papaya), salty (soy, rock salt, fish sauces, caviars), spicy (fresh, dried and crushed chilies, Asian chili pastes, rayu and hot sesame oils, curry pastes and powders, Chinese red rice vinegar), and even bitter tastes (peppercorns, spice sprouts, watercress, horseradishes, mustard, coriander and anise seeds, and mesclun greens such as arugula, mizuna, dandelion, mustard greens, cress, nasturtium). Foods for Sweet Nigori (Cloudy/Rough Filtered) Style Sakes (Sake Meter Values of –6 or Less) Fuller white meats, game birds, and some offal (chicken, pork, duck, squab, sweetbreads, tripe, etc.). Sweet/sour/spicy appetizers that incorporate the earthy flavors (such as Thai and Japanese dipping sauces) that sakes love.