Banh mi: A Submarine Sandwich With An Exotic Twist (2/2)

In Los Angeles John Mekpongsatorn also is testing the waters with a more modern version of a banh mi sandwich shop in Westwood Village, near UCLA. Mekpongsatorn's family has operated several noodle concepts and upscale Thai restaurants in the region for more than a decade. Four months ago Mekpongsatorn openedEastWest Sandwich, a hip fast-casual sandwich shop offering traditional banh mi as well as pan-Asian riffs on the sandwich. For example,EastWestoffers a "Philippinewich" with hot chicken adobo, pepper and soy sauce stuffed into a baguette with lettuce. Among the "Chinawich" selections are sliced cha siu pork, orange chicken with pineapple, or sweet-and-sour salmon. And "Thaiwiches" include a chicken-satay version and chicken panang with curry sauce. The tag line for the company is "Chopsticks not required." EastWest uses a baguette with a crust that is slightly softer than those of traditional French baguettes. At many banh mi shops, Mekpongsatorn says, the bread is too hard to bite into. "In Vietnamese places I think they focus so much on the bread they overlook what they're doing." Mekpongsatorn also offers a line of hot and cold Asian-style teas and coffees, developed under the brand Boba World, which complements the sandwich line. "I'm trying to create something that's a little more unique than what the other stores are doing," says Mekpongsatorn, who plans to open at least five more EastWest units over the next two or three years. "There is more testing to be done to see if this is a concept to take nationwide." Pangaea Sandwich Shop:A "Global Grub." In Atlanta, Tuan "Butch" Raphael also is going for a multicultural theme with his Pangaea sandwich shop, which he subtitles "Global grub." "It's fusion from around the world," Raphael says. "Different people from different cultures and what they eat for lunch street food." Raphael was born in Vietnam with racially mixed parentage but was raised by a Jewish family in the United States. He describes himself as half Vietnamese, half black and Jewish. Opened three years ago, Pangaea offers banh mi sandwiches as well as paninis, Mediterranean-inspired schwarmas and Mexican-style grilled torta sandwiches. But Raphael says banh mi sales make up about 30 percent to 40 percent of his business. Raphael skips the headcheese and paté versions, offering only lemongrass-marinated barbecued pork, chicken or shrimp as well as tofu. The fillings also convert easily to salads, he notes. And unlike prices at most banh mi shops, those at Pangaea are from $5.95 to $6.75, almost double the typical range. Pangaeais located in the back of an industrial complex, but it has become a destination lunch spot for people throughout the city. Raphael says he is thrilled to see steel welders eating alongside lawyers and soccer moms. Raphael now is developing a PangaeaExpress variant with a smaller footprint. The original restaurant grosses about $500,000 in sales annually with only one daypart, he says. "I'm breaking even, but I survive in a place no one thought a restaurant would. "And that's a testimony to the food," he adds. "People are more well-traveled, and they're willing to try different things." Source: Nation's Restaurant News (Magazine) May 16, 2005 Culinary Currents, Page: 41,88 Lisa Jennings