Recipes from the Kitchen of Suvir Saran (1/3)

Chef Suvir Saran, Co-Executive Chef of Dévi, is also the author of Indian Home Cooking. Published by Clarkson Potter, the book was released August 31, 2004 and has received critical acclaim. With its exotic aromas and complex flavors, Indian cuisine is one of the world's best. It's no wonder that so many people adore it and also no surprise that it could seem daunting to cook Indian food at home. Now, acclaimed chef, author and cooking teacher Suvir Saran cuts out the fuss, sharing casual, home-style Indian dishes that are perfect for everyday cooking. About Suvir Saran "In the kitchen, I found the answers to all my curiosities," says New Delhi-born chef Suvir Saran. While his brother and sister went to sports events or concerts, Saran was lured into the kitchen. As home to the family shrine, it was both the culinary and spiritual center where Saran surrounded himself with the fascinating rituals of Indian cooking, and cultivated his passion for its traditional flavors. At age 32, Saran has already become a respected food authority, poised to make great contributions to the development of Indian food in the United States. He is at once faithful to the authentic homemade dishes of his youth, and yet passionate about the continual evolution of these flavors. In August 2004, Saran opened the 75-seat restaurant Dévi, a tribute in name to the mother goddess and in flavor to the best of regional Indian cooking using fresh, seasonal ingredients. "At Dévi, each plate is a journey, introducing layers of tastes and textures, hot and cold, sweet and savory, building tiny contrasts," explains Saran. "Sweet pear chutney with fenugreek and fennel, roasted red chilies and curry leaves, each contributes a new element to surprise and delight the mouth. In just one meal, you can experience a full spectrum of flavors. This is the essence of home cooking." Dévi also brings the talents of tandoori master and co-executive chef Hemant Mathur with whom Saran formerly teamed at Amma, which they opened in 2003 and worked together at until April 2004. Under their direction, the 28-seat restaurant garnered rave reviews from New York Magazine, The New Yorker and The New York Times. Today, Survir is greatful for the support of Hemant, restaurant owner Rakesh Aggarwal, and Surbhi Sahni, pastry chef, who is known for using spices in wonderful ways. In 1997, Saran joined the staff of NYU's Department of Food and Nutrition teaching what became some of their most popular classes. What began as Saran's small catering business became one of New York's hottest catering companies as heralded by New York Magazine in 1999, the cover of the magazine featuring his Orange-Mango Soufflé with Candied Mango Peel and Pomegranate Seeds. The highlight of his catering career, says Saran, was cooking the Indian meal ever served at Carnegie Hall in 1997 for a host of international celebrities and dignitaries in honor of the 50th anniversary of India's independence. He cooked the meal in collaboration with chef Steven Heinzerling of Restaurant Associates. In September 2004, Saran's first cookbook was published, Indian Home Cooking (Clarkson Potter), with veteran food writer Stephanie Lyness. Saran has been featured in such publications as Food & Wine, Travel & Leisure, Metropolitan Home, US News & World Report, The New York Times, New York Magazine, and Los Angeles Times. He is a contributing authority to Food Arts, a frequent contributor to the Indian Board on Egullet.com that he founded and moderated and continues to teach and learn with insatiable hunger. TOMATO CHUTNEY (Makes ten 1/2-pint jars)