Analyst Mark Kalinowski of Buckingham Research Group in New York noted that American diners eat Japanese food less frequently than Chinese — though the frequency of Japanese dining is growing and P.F. Chang’s is “smart to test the waters” with Taneko.
Creating Diverse Menu
At Matsuhisa in Beverly Hills, Calif., and later at Nobu in New York, Matsuhisa pioneered a new-style Japanese cuisine that featured eclectic, cooked seafood dishes in a fine-dining setting. Myriad Restaurant Group of New York operates three Nobu restaurants there and one in London.
The sushi-or-no-sushi dilemma comes with the territory, said Lonnie Moore, Co-owner of Dolce Group. “You can’t have a restaurant that just serves sushi and expect to appease everyone,” he said, “On the other hand, open a Japanese restaurant anywhere, and customers will ask for sushi.”
Sushi dominates Geisha House’s menu, but the restaurant also has won raves for its grilled Mongolian lamb chops, $18, and grilled flat-iron Kobe beef steak, $38, as well as premium sakes.
Other restaurants like Benihan and Shabu Zen also present nonsushi dishes, which are getting more and more popular.
Drew Nieporent, Myriad’s owner and founder, said he sees plenty of room for growth in the Japanese category.
“Japanese restaurants are opening at a fast and furious pace,” he said. Nieporent predicted that “anything that’s being done on a high-quality level, which [P.F. Chang’s] is known for, will be a success.”
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