Sushi's For Everyone At Sushi On The Run

Sushi's For Everyone At Sushi On The Run Sushi has gone democratic. No longer is raw fish viewed as either exotic or exclusive in the South Bay, where sushi is as likely to be found in a supermarket deli as at an elegant Japanese restaurant. Still, Sushi On The Run in downtown Los Gatos stands out for its offbeat combination of coffee shop setting, quick service and impeccably fresh seafood. Nobo Eguchi, the owner and chef, has been serving glistening slices of hamachi (yellowtail), maguro (tuna), sake (salmon) and more at his tiny corridor of a restaurant for a decade. Trained in Japan 33 years ago, he is the second owner of the 18-year-old shop. The eight-stool sushi bar is so cramped that customers on the middle stool have to get up and leave the shop to let people in and out of the inner-most spots. Potential customers have to wait on the sidewalk. In a quirky touch, the menu of unusual combination rolls, known as maki, is posted behind the diners — printed in reverse so it can be read in the mirror in front of them. The more than four dozen rolls ($3.50-7.50) reflect the tastes of Eguchi's long-time regulars, many of whom came up with combos that carry their names. Their creations range from the Big Wave Dave ($6) — with its intriguing texture contrasts of barbecued eel, tuna, avocado and cucumber and sesame seeds — to Rikki's Rolls Royce Roll ($7.50), an upscale mingling of eel, yellowtail, avocado, cucumber, scallion, peanuts and tobiko (flying fish roe). Nigiri, slabs of raw fish atop tender, lightly seasoned lozenges of rice, show off the quality of the seafood. Eguchi flies the popular hamachi in from Japan daily and drives to Santa Cruz every morning to pick up salmon, tuna and halibut. There's usually a wait to grab a stool, but service is quick once you're seated. Eguchi works rapidly, slicing fish and shaping rolls to order. Customers banter, and he replies with flashes of low-key humor. Takeout is available but it's not nearly as much fun. FROM The San Jose Mercury News