Lan, a Chino Latino born in Uruguay, said he has no choice but to cater to the Hispanic population because the Chinese restaurant business is saturated in the city.
“Business is hard, ” said Lan. “Even the Chinese restaurants have to add Japanese food on their menus. If we just served plain Chinese, people wouldn ’t come. ”
Indeed it is the Latin food that dominates Dinastia China. Red beans and rice, plantains and tostones, a tart version of plantains, are common side dishes to the bistec and fish. What ’s unique here, said Lan, is the fried king fish which is native to the Caribbean.
“To me, it ’s more home-style, ” said Forrest Miller a customer who frequents Dinastia China several times a week. “Michael knows exactly what to do. ”
But cooks and waiters like Lan may eventually be a rare breed. Chinese Latinos in the United States once had thriving enclaves in Miami, Washington DC and New York but their numbers are dwindling. Similarly in Cuba, El Barrio Chino is now a ghost town compared to its pre- Castro heyday. Under Castro ’s regime, Chinese Latinos who once fled China, fled again to East Coast cities of the United States. But few Chinese immigrants today come by way of Latin America. And those that do, say Chu of Flor de Mayo, are not inclined to work in restaurants.
“They come very equipped, ” said Chu about the Chino-Latinos who come to New York today. “It ’s hard work to put in 11 to 13 hours a day in a restaurant. ”
Chu spends about 60 hours a week working, some of those hours are spent with his nephew Dennis, who will inherit the business when his father is ready. New Yorkers can find relief that one Chinese-Latin restaurant will last for at least another generation.
Notable Chinese-Latin restaurants
Dinastia China
145 West 72nd St.
New York City 10023
(212) 362-3801
Flor de Mayo
484 Amsterdam Ave.
New York City 10024
(212) 787-3388
2651 Broadway
New York City 10025
(212) 663-5520
La Caridad 78
2199 Broadway
New York City 10024
(212)874-2780