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Meats, Cheeses are Cured at Newly Opened Elements Cuisine

The new Elements Cuisine in Gateway Center, Downtown, might be the only restaurant in Allegheny County to cure its own meats and prepare its own cheeses.

Owner David Greenberg says that it was only fitting to create a space in the 252-seat restaurant for his executive chef, Justin Severino, to cure meats. Severino, 32, owned Severino's Community Butcher in Santa Cruz, Calif., for several years before moving to Pittsburgh two years ago.

"Justin is passionate about meats and is an expert in charcuterie," says Greenberg, who opened Elements Cuisine Aug. 23. "His business was based completely on sourcing local, humanely raised animals. We wanted to be able to offer the Pittsburgh market a unique option that no other restaurant is offering to this extent."

Elements Cuisine took over the space previously occupied by Palomino restaurant for nearly eight years. The spacious, earth-toned surroundings have floor-to-ceiling windows and an open, stainless steel kitchen. Wooden tables are covered with chocolate linen tablecloths, and the well-stocked lounge features a brown and cream marble bar top and tables and comfortable leather chairs. Thirty additional seats are available on the patio.

"We wanted to make the space more warm, inviting and contemporary," says Greenberg, a Los Angeles native who has been in the restaurant business for 20 years in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. "This was a good opportunity, and I found the best people I could find to work here."

He's especially proud of Severino, a native of Ashtabula, Ohio, who attended Pennsylvania Institute of Culinary Arts (now Le Cordon Bleu) and worked at Casbah in Shadyside before moving to California for seven years. Severino worked under David Kinch at Manresa, a famous farm-to-table restaurant in Los Gatos, as well as La Aberge in Carmel. Before he opened Elements Cuisine, Severino worked at Eleven Contemporary Kitchen in the Strip District.

"Justin is a very talented, passionate and creative chef," Greenberg says. "His menu is a true reflection of the vibrant food and flavors local growers have to offer."

Cooking came naturally to Severino, who grew up in a very large Italian family that ate dinner together at least six nights a week.

"My mother and grandmother are both great cooks, and my grandfather was a butcher," says Severino, who is married and lives in Mt. Washington. "The rest of my family loves to eat, drink and have a good time together. It was very natural for me to become a chef. The first dish I ever made was fresh pasta and pesto."

Severino is responsible for the diverse menu, which offers diners options such as specialty pizzas, small plates, soups and salads, and entrees. Entrees include pappardelle pasta with mussels, clams and sausage; porchetta with salsa verde and lentil; wild mushroom potato pave with braised greens; leg of lamb with merguez sausage and potato puree; and walleyed pike with potato forchette and Perigord truffles.

A dozen specialty meats that have been cured by Severino are featured, including Spanish chorizo, Spanish-style pork loin, terrine of chicken confit, duck speck, Northern Italian salami, and prosciutto surryano (dry-cured, hickory smoked ham). A dozen unusual varieties of cheese also have also been prepared by him, featuring cow's milk, sheep's milk, goat's milk and raw cow's milk from different states and countries.

Severino offers American, Italian and Spanish tasting menus of meats, cheese and vegetables; there's also a seven-course tasting menu. The kitchen boasts a rotisserie along with a pizza oven.

"My philosophy is to use really high-quality ingredients and prepare them simply," Severino says. "Most of what we do here is Mediterranean-based, with fresh, light dishes and no heavy meat sauces. We do not overcomplicate the food.

"The hardest thing is being creative with what's available in season," he says.

Elements Cuisine is working with local farmers and purveyors such as Green Grocers for produce; Elysian Fields for lamb; and McConnell's Farm for peaches and corn. The restaurant buys trout from a local trout farm, and smokes it on the premises.

The feedback from customers since opening has been very gratifying for Severino.

"Lunch is incredibly busy, and we've had a lot of local chefs eating here," he says. "Hopefully, Elements Cuisine will encourage more Pittsburgh restaurants and individuals to become more aware of who is growing our food, and emphasize the importance of supporting our local farmers."

The best part about being a chef, says Severino, is making a connection among local farmers, the menu, his cooks and the customer.

"If I can do that," he says, "I feel like I have accomplished something."

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