A Star Chef Celebrates Fall Vegetables

“It’s not a way to pull a niche market into the restaurant, nor is it designed to be an escape from regular food,’’ Mr. Anthony explained. “It’s meant to be a celebration of vegetables, and a great snapshot of what’s available in the farmers’ market and what’s growing in family farms around our area.’’

As a result, Mr. Anthony says he was eager to “show off” vegetables as part of the Well Vegetarian Thanksgiving series.

“There is this notion of reconsidering the role that proteins play in the conception of the dish,’’ he says. “It makes for good eating to reconsider and create dishes that let vegetables play a major role.’’

The seasonal menu offered by Mr Anthony includes buckwheat and black kale, a soup made with celery root and chestnuts and a salad of sunchokes and apples.

“The nature of these dishes is that you let them steal the show,” he said. “You don’t eat it and think, ‘Boy, this would be good with duck.’ You just say, ‘This is so delicious.’ ”