Sourcing sustainable seafood is a tricky business

Sustainability continues to be a driver when it comes to buying and menuing seafood. But the criteria for sustainable seafood is confusing to many operators. Sure, entities like the Marine Stewardship Council, Blue Ocean Institute and Monterey Bay Aquarium have issued guidelines and lists. But for some restaurants, these “recommended” species don’t always jibe with food costs or availability. Compromises have to be made to get food on plates.

Salmon tales
Salmon has been one of the most hotly contested fish in the sustainability arena. Seafood Watch, issued by the Monterey Bay Aquarium, warns consumers to “avoid” farmed salmon, with the “best choice” being several wild species from Alaska. But salmon is one of the top five fish menued across all restaurant segments (see sidebar), and year-round supply is essential. What’s more, advances in salmon farming have made it a more sustainable option of late. “Harmoniously raised salmon,” one of the newest methods, is guided by standards set by the World Wildlife Fund’s sustainability goals.

Two chefs from two very different concepts talk about how they’re meeting the challenges of sourcing salmon.

Charlie Torgerson
Director of Culinary, Famous Dave’s of America, Minnetonka, Minnesota
Famous Dave’s is a destination for BBQ-craving carnivores, but since 2005, salmon has been on the menu too. Early this year, three new salmon dishes were introduced to lighten up the meat-centric menu a bit more. “Salmon has great guest acceptance by both men and women,” says director of culinary Charlie Torgerson. “And with a higher fat content [than other fish] we can smoke it and grill it like our meats.”

Torgerson purchases IQF salmon that’s vacuum-packed in 6-ounce portions; these are easy to prep consistently across Famous Dave’s 188 locations. “We source Norwegian farm-raised salmon, which has a pink-red flesh that’s appealing to our guests. For awhile, we were buying Chilean farmed salmon because of price, but its flesh was a little too orange,” he notes. “Our customer doesn’t need wild sockeye—they’re happy with a tasty fish that offers good value.” That said, traceability and sustainability are priorities and Torgerson is satisfied that Norwegian salmon is farmed responsibly.

The salmon stars in one of his new Citrus Grill BBQ platters, cured with Famous Dave’s rub, then grilled to order with a Honey Chipotle Lime glaze and served with broccoli; it comes in under 600 calories. The dish replaces an old-school salmon entrée that was topped with French fried onion rings. “We’re getting ready for government-mandated menu labeling by introducing some lower-calorie options,” Torgerson explains.