Chefs find new ways to work in chicken livers

Whether Southern-fried or glorified in buttery patés, chicken livers are getting good play in popular Dallas restaurants. They’re full-flavored yet milder than beef liver, with a luxurious, rich texture.
Although remarkably cheap, chicken livers, like other offal, have more of a cult following than mass appeal. If you’re timid about preparing them, take heart: These parts are quick-cooking, and most recipes are easy enough for beginners.

There’s good news on the nutrition front, too. Chicken livers are a good source of several nutrients.

There’s hardly a charcuterie board in Dallas right now that doesn’t include a chicken liver paté or mousse. From gastropubs like the Meddlesome Moth and the Standard Pour to dining hot spots like FT33, Stampede 66, Lucia and Nonna, chicken liver spreads are the toast-toppings of the town. Chicken liver crostini even turn up at Oddfellows, a hipster haven known for its all-day breakfast menu.

Fried chicken livers are mainstays at Southern and soul food restaurants, like Dixie House, Norma’s and Big Mama’s Chicken & Waffles. They’re traditionally served with cream gravy, but Tillman’s Roadhouse offers a modern Texas twist: a dipping duo of ranch dressing and chipotle gravy. Blue cheese dip or dressing is another accompaniment in some updated Southern recipes.

Classic Cajun dirty rice gets its earthy note from chicken livers. Although some restaurants omit the liver, Nate’s Seafood & Steakhouse in Addison stays true to the classic liver-flecked recipe. Chicken livers are also traditional Asian grill fare. The skewered chicken livers at Teppo Yakitori and Sushi Bar are lacquered with a savory-sweet sauce as they’re cooked briefly over coals.

Crispy chicken livers take well to salads, too: at Boulevardier, they flank a poached egg on an arugula and chicory salad.

Home cook Ken Gordon of Dallas stands by an old-school preparation — liver and onions. “They’re crunchy on the outside and velvety inside,” Gordon says.

Despite their affordability — you can find them for around $2 a pound — many home cooks don’t dabble in chicken livers. Perhaps memories of poorly made versions keep some from trying, but when cooked properly, chicken livers taste like an extravagant delicacy.

David Uygur, chef and owner of Lucia, says it’s important to cook the livers just to medium doneness, signaled by a rosy-pink center. “I think well-done chicken livers are gross. It’s not the end of the world if you overcook them, but they will have a grainy texture and a more iron-y flavor,” he says.

When making chicken liver crostini, Uygur soaks the livers in milk overnight before cooking them. “It gives them a cleaner taste that’s not as funky or strong,” he says. Read on for more tips and recipes that make the most of chicken livers.