Strict requirements keep many eateries from 'gluten-free' guarantees

The hunger for gluten-free foods has become a headache for restaurant chains, as they struggle to produce dishes that meet increasingly strict requirements from customers and government regulators.

"We're going to be very conservative," said Travis Doster, spokesman for Texas Roadhouse Inc., which plans to start informing guests of its "gluten friendly" menu items in the next month. The FDA guideline "is one reason we're not saying 'gluten-free,'" Mr. Doster said.

Noodles & Co. recently began offering a gluten-free noodle that can be made with any dish, but the restaurant chain posts lengthy disclaimers on its website, and trains employees to warn customers that it can't guarantee the final meal will be gluten-free. Similarly, Olive Garden offers a gluten-free menu upon request, with the caveat that it makes "no guarantees regarding the gluten content of these items." The chain, owned by Darden Restaurants Inc., said it is "evaluating the [FDA] guidelines."

About two million to three million Americans, or nearly 1% of the population, suffer from celiac disease, an autoimmune disorder in which the ingestion of gluten interferes with the absorption of nutrients, according to the Center for Celiac Research & Treatment in Boston. The National Foundation for Celiac Awareness estimates that another 18 million Americans have a gluten sensitivity, meaning they experience diarrhea, anemia and other symptoms similar to those of celiac disease, but lack the antibodies and intestinal damage found in those with the disease.

Millions more who don't have a specific health issue are eliminating gluten from their diets. Nearly 30% of Americans surveyed by market research firm NPD Group Inc. said they are trying to avoid gluten, up from 25.5% three years ago.

Many chains have learned the hard way how vocal the gluten-free community can be. California Pizza Kitchen rolled out pizzas made with a gluten-free crust in late 2010. Customers were furious when they realized gluten was in other parts of the pizza, although the chain said it made it clear that the toppings weren't gluten-free.

"They were very loud in voicing their displeasure with us," said Brian Sullivan, the chain's senior vice president of culinary development.

California Pizza Kitchen pulled the pizzas off the menu about six months later and then spent more than a year working with the Gluten Intolerance Group of North America, a nonprofit that certifies products as gluten-free, to revamp its kitchen operations and train employees. The company in October began offering four new pizzas that each contain fewer than 10 parts per million of gluten.

When someone orders a gluten-free pizza, a manager is called to the pizza station to supervise its preparation. The gluten-free crusts it buys arrive at its more than 200 restaurants in sealed bags and don't require stretching. The restaurant uses rice flour for stretching its regular pizza dough, to prevent any wheat from getting into the kitchen's air. Color-coded bins ensure ingredients for gluten-free and regular pizzas are kept apart.

Gluten-free pizzas are assembled in a designated area, with separate sauce ladles and cutting wheels. Before they go in the oven, the pizzas are placed on disposable aluminum tins with a half-inch border on all sides so they don't touch regular pizzas. The tins reduce heat exposure, so the gluten-free pizzas take about 12 minutes to cook—double the usual time.

"It's a pretty intense process," Mr. Sullivan said.

Mr. Sullivan said the changes weren't that costly; the real investment was the time it took to train managers and cooks. So far, he said, California Pizza Kitchen is selling about 35 gluten-free pizzas per store each week, or less than 5% of restaurant sales. The chain charges $2 extra for gluten-free pizzas.

California Pizza Kitchen said the adjustments were worthwhile because the demand for gluten-free products is here to stay. Restaurant managers around the country have consistently reported that gluten-free pizza was the single most-requested item. "I don't believe it is a fad," Mr. Sullivan said.

Other chains have opted for simpler responses. After Texas Roadhouse first introduced a gluten-free menu six years ago, some customers claimed they tested some of the menu items and determined they weren't entirely gluten-free, and others reported they had gotten sick.

Texas Roadhouse pulled the gluten-free menu after a year. The chain now trains staff how to answer customers' questions about how the food is prepared. They are supposed to list 10 menu items that could appeal to someone concerned about gluten, including a grilled chicken with no marinade, unseasoned steaks and certain salads.

"There won't be printed menus at this time," Mr. Doster said.

Domino's Pizza Inc. last year introduced a gluten-free pizza crust along with a lengthy online disclaimer explaining that due to the size of its kitchens, it can't control for cross-contamination. Domino's website says it "DOES NOT recommend this pizza for customers with celiac disease. Customers with gluten sensitivities should exercise judgment in consuming this pizza."

"That just makes me want to throw my hands up and say, 'Really? You're not going to take any extra effort to make sure it is a safe product?'" said Bonnie Harrison, a Seattle-area resident who was diagnosed with celiac disease four years ago. "I don't eat at those kinds of places."

Cynthia Kupper, executive director of the Gluten Intolerance Group of North America, criticizes the decision by some chains to simply describe certain menu items as made without gluten ingredients rather than calling them gluten-free. "That would be very confusing to the consumer," and potentially dangerous to someone with a serious gluten sensitivity, she said.

Still, "There's never going to be a 100% guarantee that a restaurant meal will be gluten-free," she said. "At some point the consumer has a responsibility in this process as well."